Bond Wardrobe Review 21: Casino Royale 2006

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• This suit is ultimately the most successful one in the film, but it’s a shame it’s hardly visible.
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• One of the film’s best casual looks is a more mature topcoat for when Bond breaks into M’s flat.
• It’s a brilliant choice to complement the ribbed silk jacket facings with a different kind of textured silk.

The third combines the light grey jumper and navy sweatpants and pairs them with a white t-shirt. James Bond’s outfits should always have a special quality about them, even in situations like this. Though he has just been through a lot, it looks like Le Chiffre completely destroyed Bond’s manhood when he’s dressed in these clothes. The first Brioni suit is the light grey linen suit when Bond arrives in the Bahamas.

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The topcoat is in a tweed-like barleycorn cloth and has a pleasantly dramatic look when a short jacket could have been equally appropriate. His stylish trousers are in a fine black and white check with an overlaid light blue check. Overall this is one of the best smart casual looks of the series by showing how to look sophisticated while dressing casually in the 21st century. The striped navy suit is a Bond classic, and it’s perfect to demonstrate maturity, but I think it’s out of place on Lake Como. Something sportier, like the checked suit he wears earlier in the film, would have been a more appropriate choice while still conveying the same maturity in a three-piece suit. The light blue poplin shirt is a classic Bond look too, and the blue-and-white honeycomb pattern tie subtly recalls Connery’s navy grenadine ties.

His final casual look of the film revives the black shawl-collar cardigan, this time pairing it with a white V-neck t-shirt and khaki chinos. He needs a better shirt, especially to lead us into the final suit of the film. For the film’s climax, Bond wears a mid-blue rugby shirt from Massimo Dutti over a grey t-shirt and navy chinos. The rugby shirt is a superb choice, but the t-shirt is superfluous and detracts from the look tremendously. He’s not on a mission, so he should be wearing more stylish shoes like the suede chukka boots he previously wore in the film. There were much nicer suede trainers available if this was the look he was going to have.

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The shawl-collar cardigan and the checked trousers are worn together as well as with other items. The light blue linen shirt has a strong two-button collar that looks good on Craig unbuttoned, but it is let down with short sleeves. A linen shirt with long sleeves would not wear much differently in hot weather, yet it would look much better under a suit jacket.

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It has an appropriately modern look for Bond compared to the traditional tan raincoat. Craig’s muscular body in Casino Royale—the most extreme body of the Bond series—is difficult to tailor, both in getting the shape of the clothes to follow the body and in making it look elegant. I think that Hemming and Brioni did a good job at achieving a balance, though I think the shoulders and width of the trouser legs could have been attenuated.

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The Madagascar outfit has many fans, but I find that it’s one of the weakest looks of the Bond series. The loud Liberty-print shirt is uncharacteristic for Bond and makes him stand out too much in the crowd for it to be a practical choice. He draws more attention to himself wearing this shirt than his fellow agent does touching his ear. Layering an unbuttoned shirt over a t-shirt was trendy at the time, but I find the look unnecessarily complicated, and the mostly unbuttoned shirt looks sloppy. Had he just worn the shirt over his bare chest and buttoned the shirt, I think he would have looked much neater.

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• Bond returns to his full self in black swim trunks with white stripes at the sides and a red stripe across the rear in a fit that rivals the blue trunks.

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When Bond returns to the Bahamas he’s wearing a navy polo from Sunspel in their ‘Riviera’ mesh. This is one of the best looks of the film, especially due to how it revived the polo from the Connery era and defined it as a staple of Craig’s Bond wardrobe. The updated trim fit turned the polo into a fresh look, while the unique mesh knit with a self collar instead of a ribbed collar also removed many of the garment’s stodgy connotations. The trousers’ cut represents a short-lived trend for men that doesn’t hold up well now, but it doesn’t detract from the polo’s brilliance. Light blue swim trunks are a Connery Bond classic that return to the series in a fresh way.

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